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Published by the Fort Ross Interpretive Association, Inc.;
19005 Coast Highway One ;
Jenner, CA 95450 ;
© 1987 Fort Ross Interpretive Association ;
ISBN 0- 9617973- 3- 9 ;
Second Printing, 2004 ;
Printed by Seraphim Rose Press ;
Fort Ross Interpretive Association ;
Cover: Laura Call Carr, taken in March 1901, when she
was 24 years old. ( Courtesy Laurie Carr Horn);
My Life At Fort Ross: The Years 1877- 1907 ;
Laura Call Carr ;
The Fort Ross I write of is not the Fort Ross of today. All the images are gone and cold; today it is statistically correct, clean fact established by research and history. The area heading to the stockade is usually filled with glittering cars, chattering, hurrying people being directed to what they must see and where they can find something to eat or drink— changing direction every few minutes as all our lives do today. ;
My Fort Ross is peopled with different sorts of beings. They are shadowy now. They move slowly and easily. They have no place in the hurry and bustle of today. There was a glamour about them— from my father, who dominated the picture, and my mother, who so perfectly complemented him, down to the least of those who lived and visited there. ;
This is not a history; it is a collection of my memories of Fort Ross as I knew it long ago. There were nine of us children. I was sixth in line, followed by a sister and two brothers. We were solidly bound into a family and united in everything we did.;
My earliest remembrance of the Russian buildings is as follows. The chapel was in fair shape, not just as it is now; it has been restored by data and reasoning. The two block houses were sadly in need of repair. The southerly one was not as badly crumbled as the other, which was blocked off so that no one would get hurt— the logs were falling and the building leaned badly.
3
The Fort Ross Hotel and guests, with two- story addition ( the “ old” house) about 1880. ( Fort Ross State Historic Park Archives)
The southeast side of the stockade held a row of buildings that were used as stables and wagon sheds. Within the stockade,
the side where the commandant’s house1 still stands contained
a granary and two additions to the original buildings, one a
two- story affair, our family’s first home at Fort Ross and later
part of the hotel, where one of my sisters and I were born.
Next to the hotel was a long narrow building. 2 The front part
was used as a saloon; next was the mysterious “ back room”,
which we spoke of in whispers and were never allowed to enter.
Beyond that was a men’s washroom, with a long wooden sink
and tin basins. Then there were two or three “ bedrooms” and
behind these was a lovely little wind- protected garden with a
gate with a weight to keep it shut.
The large, two- story granary3 had wide, heavily planked steps
that led to the upper floor. I remember potatoes were kept in
the upper part. The lower part was divided into a wagon shed
and a dance hall. This hall had a wonderfully smooth- boarded
floor, benches all around it, and a small dais or stage where
4
musicians sat. Before I learned to dance, we used to roller skate
there. The George Morgan family, who ran the hotel in the
commandant’s house and its two- story addition, had three boys
and three girls. The Morgan children let us use their skates if we
would give them rusks, or light biscuits, which Dominica Bellotti,
our cook, made so well.
Outside the stockade, on the western side, was a beautiful garden
laid out in neat beds with well kept rows of vegetables and
flowers. It was enclosed with a heavy fence made of boards
nailed on lengthwise. There was a neat little summerhouse4
with latticed sides and little “ briderose” ( Cecile Brunner) found
now only near very old houses around the state. Also outside
the stockade were a slaughterhouse, a small cabin, and a building
used as a store, post office, and telegraph office. The Indians
had lived in small huts outside the stockade, but when I was
born these were all gone.
In front of the saloon, 1884: on horseback ( left) John Daly
( right) John Doda; standing ( left to right) patrons Mrs. George
Morgan holding daughter Vida, George Morgan, three patrons,
and W. C. Morgan; seated ( left to right) Lucille Morgan, Ethel
Morgan, Raymond Morgan. Behind the saloon are the two-story
addition ( left) and granary ( right). ( Courtesy Viva Leiva
Tomlin collection)
5
When my parents came to Fort Ross there were four children,
three born in Chile ( Ana, Rosa, Emma, and Oscar) and one in
San Francisco ( Mary). Two of us were born in the two- story
addition to the commandant’s house ( Lucy and me), and the
youngest girl ( Mercedes, called “ Ceda”) and my two brothers
( Carlos and George) arrived in the “ new” house, 5 built in 1878.
There were no trees on the site; we planted most of them. I
believe we planted all except the willows that grew in the little
creek where my father built the new house. He planted the
weeping willows there from slips brought from the Russian
orchard, which was about three- quarters of a mile from the
house. The northwest wind was prevalent and trees did not
thrive on the level land that was exposed to it, so on the slight
rise that existed northwest of the house, my father had a
windbreak of cypress planted. I remember the young trees being
unloaded from the schooner, and several men planting them,
and I remember again how we children watered all five hundred
trees every day for what seemed an eternity. I think every one
grew, but they had quite a struggle in one rocky place where
the road once went.
Looking toward the schoolhouse ( left) and the Call’s “ new”
house ( right) about 1895. ( Courtesy Viva Leiva Tomlin
collection)
6
The Call family and friends on the front porch of the “ new”
house about 1905: standing on the porch ( left to right) Ceda
Call, Ramona Pearce, Dorena Gottschalk, Phoebe Bowers;
seated on the top steps ( left to right) Laura Call, Carlos Call;
seated on the lower steps ( left to right) Emma Call, Lucy Call,
Mary Call; standing ( left) George W. Call, ( right) Mercedes L.
Call. ( Courtesy Mercedes Pearce Stafford)
My father was a father in every sense of the word. He was a
student and a scholar; he lived for his family. He was a big,
heavy set man about six feet tall, and weighed about 200
pounds. He was not fat; he was just big, heavily muscled,
and sturdy. He always wore a woolen business suit, stiff
white shirts with detachable collars, a tie, made- to- order
boots, a derby hat, and carried a heavy cane and a set of
keys.
He took long walks about the ranch and always brought home
interesting things to tell us, but I never knew him to do any
ranch work, except in his later days to saw wood for exercise.
He could not hitch up a horse, nor milk a cow, nor plant trees
or vegetables. He spent most of his time in his office working
on his bookkeeping or reading.
7
He had a good business head— he was a lawyer, mentor, and
advisor to anyone who sought him out. His word was his bond;
he was impartial and just. Once a month he went to San
Francisco or Santa Rosa on business. Everybody who knew him
came to him for advice as to business deals, law practice, or
when they got into trouble, just as they turned to my mother
for counsel in births, deaths, and marriage affairs. He abhorred
personal publicity. When my brother Carlos risked his life on a
dark stormy night to carry a lifeline to a vessel on the rocks, 6
thereby saving six lives, he would not let him accept a Carnegie
medal. I always believed God must be just like Papa, even to
the dicer hat and full beard.
My mother was sixteen when she married my father, the “ gringo”
who was twenty years older. She had dark hair and sparkling
black eyes; she was five feet tall and perhaps 100 pounds or
more. She was an orphan and had had no advantages, and
almost no schooling. But Mama had a good business mind, a
quick wit, and lot of good common sense. She was a natural
cook and had a love of the beautiful, which showed itself in her
handwork and garden. She was a wonderful mother. She never
raised a hand to us, and never scolded us. We were an extremely
harmonious family.
The orchards, the haying, the dairy, calves and hogs and chickens,
and the clearing of land kept everybody busy. Then there was
the business of cutting wood, for that was our only fuel.
Every fall the hay fields and orchards were plowed and seeded
with grain, for feed for the horses and cows. It was a big
operation and an important one, because the cows had to be
fed through the fall months after the grass had been eaten off in
summer. After the hay was harvested in June and July, the
apples began to ripen. The orchards bore abundantly, and we
had a great many apples of all kinds. Our favorite was from
the trees planted by the Russians, an early, very juicy, striped
apple, which we later learned was a Gravenstein. The cows
8
Cattle being driven past the Call house about 1900; note the
schoolhouse across old Coast Road in background. ( Courtesy
Laurie Carr Horn)
and hogs ate those which fell from the trees. Some of the cows
would shake the trees when they could reach the limbs. The
men would later gather the apples, and they were stored on
shelves in a cool dark building built for that purpose. We had
apples until April. The Russian orchard still has apples and pears.
The larger orchard ( 1,800 apple trees), planted by William Otto
Benitz, an earlier owner, was on a higher slope. When the trees
and brush that protected the Benitz orchard from the coastal
winds were later cleared away, most of the apple trees died.
We lived in a world of our own creation: of natural history, of
games which we ourselves invented. We explored that part of
the ranch which was near the house. We drew maps and pictures
of the town and named every little creek, path, and tiny
waterfall. We gathered wild flowers, and we brought home
shells and seaweed from the beaches and built “ ranches and
dairies” on the front porch. On Sunday mornings we went to
9
Bathing at the Sandy Beach about 1900 ( Courtesy Mercedes
Pearce Stafford)
the wonderful Sandy Beach, where we learned about the small
creatures that dwelled there and which we studied under
lamplight in Cassel’s History from my father’s bookshelves.
Sometimes we walked as far as “ Q” beach, about a mile, and to
Kolmer Gulch, a mile in the other direction. We went exploring
up the creeks, stopping at the old coal mine and daring ourselves
to go in. But we were never brave enough. We may have
gone in about six feet, but no farther. What might be in there?
The boys thought there might be bear, but what I feared I might
meet was something very eerie, not of this world. I was sure
there was a ghost or a witch or something of that sort there,
because often, after a rain shower, I saw the witches’ smoke
rising from the trees, and I looked fearfully but kept tight hold
of the posts on the porch so that if a witch came, it would have
to take the whole house if it took me.
Reading and music were a prominent part of our lives. Uncle
Ambrose Call in the East7 sent my family a square grand piano
around the Horn. It was put into the new house as it was being
built, and the house was built around it ( and it remains there
today). It was a source of great pleasure to us all. My two
10
older sisters, Ana Rosa and Emma, were proficient pianists. As
we grew up, we formed a quartet, which gave the family an
additional source of enjoyment. Every Friday evening we had
an hour of singing. We met at our house and on alternate
weeks at the hotel. We spent many happy evenings there. My
sister Emma and I played the piano, while my brother George
played the harmonica, or W. C. “ Uncle Billy” Morgan, the
brother of the hotel operator and a gallant, well- mannered
storekeeper of the old school, played the fiddle.
In one of our games, everything that we were associated with
had not only a name but a tune. My sister Emma would play
the piano. She was always the interlocutor, the leader. She sat
at the piano and one of us would interpret the story as she
played it. We used these songs as a secret code to communicate
to each other when we wanted to tell of an arrival, or about
someone, or a place to go. We even used it quietly at the
dinner table, where our father kept us silent and obedient. If
we disobeyed, he silently got up from his chair, walked around
the table and snapped us sharply on the head. My sister, Mary,
sat next to Papa and was able to make faces and cause us all to
laugh and therefore be punished by a “ snip”. Papa dished up
our food, and we ate it all. But I always picked out the onions
and hid them under the edge of my plate, secretly slipping them
into my palm as I was excused from the table.
Happy Point, sketched by Laura Call about 1897. ( Courtesy
Laurie Carr Horn)
11
As the family grew and education became a problem, my father
built another two- room building, known as “ the cottage” 8; one
room was a schoolroom and the other room was a laundry,
with a long bench of tubs and a stove for “ boiling” the white
clothes. To open the school, we had to have fifteen children,
and to maintain it we had to have five to ten in daily attendance.
Children from the neighboring ranches came in to attend school.
I do not remember ever having associated with any outsiders
before that time. It was my first day of school, and I laughed so
much and so loudly that I was dismissed as being too young.
After a few weeks of public school in our yard, my father built
another schoolhouse a short distance away, where we all went
to school until we were ready for high school.
Our communication with
the outside world was the
telegraph, which reached
to Duncans Mills, the daily
stage, and the little
schooner, which carried
ranch produce to San
Francisco and brought
back provisions, seed
grain, and other ranch and
household necessities.
Papa purchased the
telegraph, and in time also
became owner of the stage
line and several schooners.
Fort Ross School class about 1890;
( front row, left to right) Ross
Morgan, George H. Call, and Vida
Morgan; ( back row) Raymond
Morgan, Carlos Call, Lucille
Morgan, Ceda Call, Ethel Morgan,
and Emma Call ( teacher).
( Courtesy Mercedes Pearce
Stafford)
12
Vessels anchored in Fort Ross Bay about 1890, ( clockwise) Albion
( scow schooner), schooner Christina Steffins, and schooner Portia.
( Courtesy Viva Leiva Tomlin collection)
Schooner day was a big day. On these days Captain Botcher of
the Euphemia, the most frequent visitor in the little sheltered
bay, was our dinner guest, and it was a great event for us.
What a thrill it was to watch the trim little vessel sail into the
bay and drop her anchor. Once the ship was anchored, some
of the crew jumped into the little boats and carried three lines
to various points on the shore, which held her steady. She was
then warped under the chute that extended out into the bay.
When the ship was secure, the apron was let down so that it
rested on the schooner’s deck and the unloading began. A line
attached to a small flat car was hitched to horses on the bluff
and lowered down the chute to the schooner. The goods and
provisions were then loaded onto the car, and the horses pulled
the car up the chute. To load the ship, a drag, pulled by a single
horse, would carry a load from its proper row on the bank
over to the chute and dump it down the incline. I watched
breathlessly, expecting to see the load jump over the deck into
the water, but it never did. When the schooner was loaded,
the apron was lifted, the ship warped out again, the lines untied,
13
and the sails unreefed and spread to the wind. Slowly at first,
but gaining momentum as she reached open water, away she
went.
On windy days, these small coastal vessels tacked up the coast,
very much as one climbs a steep hill by zigzagging back and
forth. What excitement there was when a steam vessel went by
and we could read her name with the binoculars. We grew to
know them all by the markings on their smoke funnels. But the
wind- propelled vessels were much more interesting to me— a
lesson in painstaking navigation as they came near the land and
the flapping of the sails as they went about on a tack out to sea
again. I watched them out of sight and never grew tired of
speculating on their comings and goings.
One rainy stormy day older sister and I were in the parlor. She
was practicing the piano, and I was watching. She played
Barcarolle and explained to me that it was a boat song. Just
then there was a commotion. My father came in to tell us that
a fishing boat had been driven into the bay near the chute by
the storm and was foundering. Our men were going to let the
rope ladder down from the apron on the end of the chute so
Steam schooner sketched by Laura Call about 1897. ( Courtesy
Emma Neil Denten)
14
that the fishermen could get ashore. It was raining so hard that
we could not see the ocean. But we did see two men being
half- carried past our house to the hotel, water dripping from
their hair, their clothes half torn off. A third man had dropped
off the rope and was never found. Hearing a barcarolle brings
it all back vividly.
Some days we sat on the steps of the front porch of the house
and watched the heavy wagons pass, drawn by four or six horses,
loaded with cord wood, tanbark, or posts and grape stakes.
Some of the lead horses wore bells. We could hear them before
the wagons rounded the corner. The rough looking men who
drove these wagons wore dark shirts, overalls held up by
suspenders, high boots, and slouch hats. 9 The teams went slowly
as they pulled the heavily laden wagons up the little grade before
they went down to the chute where the forest products were
unloaded and stacked in neat rows. On the return trips they
went faster. But before they climbed up the three mile road to
the ridge, the men stopped over at the store and saloon where
the drivers did their shopping and “ had a nip”.
Teamsters driving past the saloon about 1904, ( left) Tim Brown,
( right) Will Carr, later to be Laura Call’s husband. ( Courtesy Laurie
Carr Horn)
15
Team and wagon driven by Will Carr about 1900; note bells on
the horses’ harnesses. ( Courtesy Laurie Carr Horn)
Sometimes a buggy with a well- dressed man passed by at a
smart trot. And every day the stage came by, in the morning
going down the coast, and in the afternoon up again to Timber
Cove, Salt Point, and other places with alluring names.
On one of my father’s monthly trips to San Francisco, where he
had business interests, he telegraphed up to Stewarts Point and
learned that the stage going down the coast was full and he
could not have a seat. So he had the foreman hitch a span of
horses to a light buggy and drive him to Duncans Mills to catch
the train. As the buggy rattled across a bridge over a small
stream, a man rushed out from under the bridge, stopped the
buggy and asked when the stage was coming. Then, after
receiving the answer, he grabbed up a short bundle and
disappeared up the bank. When the stage came by a little later,
the man, who was later identified as Black Bart, held it up with
a short barreled shotgun. 10 Later, when my father told us the
story we shivered with apprehension. A few years afterward,
16
Black Bart held up the stage on another nearby road. Places of
the first holdup are today still known as “ Black Bart Turn” and
“ Shotgun Point”.
Since my mother had so many children, she had no time for
housework, so we had a succession of cooks, governesses, and
hired men. When we lived in the “ old” house ( the hotel), she
had Chinese servants. When we moved to the present house,
which had a men’s dining room, we had a succession of hired
help, always a man and wife. The wife did the cooking, serving
the family of twelve ( for there was also a governess) and the
men’s table of four, or more depending on the occasion. Her
husband took care of the garden, the wood used for fuel, the
horses, and the family cow.
At the dairy there were eighty or more cows, and six men who
“ did” for themselves. There was a foreman, John Doda, a
buttermaker, and four boys, including Isadore Minetti, all Swiss.
We also had a ranch foreman, John Daly, who lived with his
wife in a cottage on the place.
Some interesting characters peopled our lives such as the man
and wife who would not work on Sunday, the old woman
who chewed raw rice, the woman who brought her big dog
Cazadero- to- Sea View stage, about 1907; taken near Sea View.
( Courtesy Mercedes Pearce Stafford)
17
which was accused of killing the neighbor’s sheep, the devout
woman who let us kiss the “ little white lady” statue if we would
help with the dishes, the Army deserter who sneaked up to the
Fort with his new wife ( my father prevailed upon him to give
himself up but recommended leniency, so that was taken care
of). Then there was the old man who chased us with a knife
when we taunted him by mispronouncing his name and enjoying
his discomfort as he was cutting the carcass of the beef which
had been butchered the day before ( of course, my father did
not keep him any longer, but as I remember we did not escape
18
punishment either). And I remember Mrs. Wilson, a chubby
little Mexican woman11 smiling and happy, who was always in
the house when a new baby arrived. She told us that she brought
the babies with her, picking them out of the cabbage patch, a
hollow log, a tree stump, or out of the creek. Each time she
told us a different baby came from a different place. She lived
about a mile away, right on the edge of the woods, where I
never doubted that she could go and pick out a baby anytime
she needed one.
Fort Ross, as Laura Call knew it ( modern rendition from the original
drawing, printed in “ History of Sonoma County” by Thompson
and West, 1870s edition) 19
Looking from the schoolhouse toward the “ new” house and
the Fort about 1907. ( Courtesy Mercedes Pearce Stafford)
Then there was old Leroy Piver, whom I used to think of as a
giant, who peered at us through his bushy eyebrows and had
tobacco stained whiskers. He was over six feet tall and could
tell the most marvelous tales, which I firmly believed. Once, he
said, he sat down to rest on a log and grasped a branch which
grew out of it, but lo, the log was a big deer and it jumped up
and took him for a most marvelous ride.
To me, anyone who came from any place but Fort Ross was as
unreal as my “ fairies and ghosts”. But as I passed my childhood
days, I began to realize not only the natural beauty of this place
that was my home but the heretofore unreal existence of the
“ Russians”. I discovered that Fort Ross had a history. I learned
about the romance between the lovely Spanish girl and the
brilliant Russian officer, 12 and about Princess Helena, her home,
her personality, and perhaps her loneliness. The Aleut otter
hunters, the boat builders, the Indians who had lived outside
the stockade all came alive, and I lived with them and walked
with them. I dreamed of them by night and by day.
20
Occasionally, someone from away would come to see the Russian
chapel, and I was sometimes delegated to unlock the door. Once
a woman looked in and said, “ Oh my, it’s just an old neglected
house. What’s so wonderful about that?” and I said, “ I have to
lock the door now, so you will have to leave.” But I was thrilled
when someone would enter, cross himself, touch the walls, go
up into the loft, measure the planks on the floor, or just sit and
look at it. One day we were playing in the old granary when
some visitors came in. When one of the women looked at the
battered old banner across the make- shift stage that read “ El
Fuerto de Los Rusos” and exclaimed “ Oh, the Feast of the Roses!”
something happened to me. I was astounded that someone as
elegant looking as she was did not know the history of the Fort
and that the banner read “ The Fort of the Russians”. Never
again did I feel unimportant. How triumphant I felt. What a
wonderful height I suddenly possessed. I’d like to feel that way
once again.
Fort Ross chapel and barn about 1895; ( left to right)
W. C. Morgan, Oscar N. Charles, and Mary Call. ( Courtesy
Viva Leiva Tomlin collection)
21
At one time, Gertrude Atherton spent the winter at Fort Ross to
gather material for her story, “ The Doomswoman”. We were
not permitted to make friends with strangers, and she was a
public personage and might be “ doubtful”. She walked about
the cliffs in rainy and foggy weather dressed in long black
garments. To me she was fascinating because she was so
mysterious. She hired my brother and a boy from the hotel to
dig up one of the Russian graves. She wanted “ an officer in full
uniform”. However, my father stopped this adventure, and she
became “ rather annoyed”. I had hoped that my father would
let her do it, as I too, would have liked to have seen the officer.
The time came for us to go to San Francisco for high school.
My two older sisters and brother boarded in San Francisco and
were not happy about it. When the second pair of girls went,
one of them became very ill from homesickness. So my father
About to begin a stroll up the old Coast Road from the Fort
and the “ new” house, 1899, ( left to right) Isadore Minetti,
Laura Call, Rosa Call, Carlos Call, Lucy Call, and Ceda Call.
( Courtesy Mercedes Pearce Stafford)
22
Strolling up old Coast Road 1899, ( left to right) Laura Call,
Emma Call, Lucy Call, Rosa Call, and William H. Turk ( later to
become the first State Park Ranger at Fort Ross). ( Courtesy
Mercedes Pearce Stafford)
bought a house in San Francisco, and we all moved down there
in December and stayed until the first of March. Most of us
hated it. Only when we saw the hills and redwoods as we rode
the narrow gauge railroad through Occidental to Cazadero on
the way home to Fort Ross did we begin to feel better.
Two of the hotel keeper’s girls were about my age and from
them I learned some very interesting things that I knew were
talked about by the women, because they always stopped talking
about them when I came into the room. Ethel Morgan was
nearest my age, in years, but twice as old in sophistication. Ethel
and my sister Mercedes and I generally got something to eat
and then found a very “ secret” place, most often the old
summerhouse where Ethel told us stories of “ real things” that
happened in the hotel, but that we must never, never tell anyone.
During this time we began going to school in San Francisco
every winter, and Ethel had lots to tell me. 13 We came back
one spring to find a boy had come to live at the hotel and work
for his board. I never met him since we were not allowed out
23
of our yard, but Ethel convinced me that he was “ Prince
Charming” in the flesh. One day she told me in tears that her
father had sent him away, but he had promised he was coming
back for her some dark night and she was going to climb out of
the window and run away with him. One dark night he did
come back, but not for her. He sawed the lock out of the
saloon door, took money, a gun, and liquor, and stole away
again. The dogs knew him so they made no noise. He was
later caught and spent some time in jail. We never heard of
him again.
We girls were more grown up now and began being less
inventive and patterning ourselves more on girls we had met at
school. We still went after abalone, trout, and clams, and
strawberries, blackberries, and fruit, but our horizons had
widened. The circle that was Fort Ross now had roads leading
out of it that held romance, adventure, and people. We were
allowed to go horseback riding, to go to dances, and to have
company for the summer from San Francisco. Horses then
Off to explore the countryside August 1906, ( left to right) Kathryn
Kaiser Call on Rex, Flora McLaughlin on Betty, Ceda Call on Prince,
and Laura Call on Lindy. ( Courtesy Laurie Carr Horn)
24
Laura and Lindy September 1906. ( Courtesy Laurie Carr Horn)
became important to us. We explored the country on horseback
and knew all the trails and byways. Some of my fondest
memories are of Prince, hard- mouthed but manageable; the little
mustang, Gypsy, who had to trot to keep up; Oro, half crazy
but spirited and tireless; and my beloved little sorrel mare, Lindy,
snappish and balky, but a joy to ride, for she was sound in wind
and limb, and a singlefooter to boot.
Looking back, we had so much in our lives. Fort Ross was the
world when I was young. The forest- topped mountains to the
eastern horizon and the ocean before us— a private, romantic
world. Some days I would sit on the front porch and look at
the ever- moving, ever- changing ocean, which swept across the
entire western horizon, wondering what lay beyond it. Where
did it all go, that romantic glamour, the wonderful sunsets from
Sunset Rock, the limitless sea whence the Russians had vanished?
It’s so long ago, my childhood, but never gone from my dreams
and memories.
25
At Old Fort Ross
by Laura Call Carr, 1899
At old Fort Ross I musing stand
The sea, the wood, on either hand
And all around seems good and grand
and wondrous fair
The rising moon, so full and bright
Shines down benignly from her height
Upon the ocean, sleeping white
and silvery there.
Calm peace the moonlit air doth fill.
Upon the quaint old church so still
Is outlined against the wooded hill
a slender cross.
And past the gulch, upon the steep
Where Russian warriors now sleep
A tall shaft doth its vigil keep
at old Fort Ross.
The watch towers crumbling with decay
Lean where their builders sailed away
With low- bowed heads they seem to pray
o’er soulfelt loss.
Across the waves on far Point Reyes
I see the faithful lighthouse blaze:
But for an instant falls its rays
on old Fort Ross.
Symbolic of our hopes and fears
Of joys and sorrows, smiles and tears
The never- ending lapse of years
the wild waves toss.
Wherever I may chance to roam
In crowded street, by ocean’s foam
My heart will still remember home
and old Fort Ross…
26
Footnotes
1 The Rotchev House.
2 The Officials’ Quarters.
3 The granary was the Russian warehouse.
4 The summerhouse and garden probably had their origin at the time
Princess Helena Gagarina Rotchev lived at Fort Ross ( 1836- 1841). The
Princess was the wife of the last Russian manager at Fort Ross, Alexander
Gavrilovich Rotchev.
5 The Call House – the portion of this house that was the kitchen and
two dining rooms was originally part of the old buildings, which were
added to the Russian buildings by owners previous to the Calls.
6 The schooner, J. Eppinger, wrecked in 1901.
7 Founder, along with his brother, Asa, of Algona, Iowa ( 1854); q. v., Call
State Park, Algona, Iowa.
8 Today called the Cottage.
9 Laura ultimately married one of the stalwart fellows, William Henry
Carr, in 1907.
10 A notorious highwayman in California in the late 1870s. On August 3,
1877 he held up the stage that ran between Point Arena and Duncans
Mills at Timber Gulch, a spot 2.5 miles down the coast from Fort Ross.
He left a poem at the site (“ I’ve labored long and hard for bread/ For
honor and for riches/ But on my corns too long you’ve tred/ You fine-haired
sons of bitches”) to which he added a postscript: “ Driver, give my
respects to our friend, the other driver; but I really had a notion to hang
my old disguise hat on his weather eye.” The highwayman signed the
poem “ Black Bart, the PO8”, thus identifying himself for the first time.
The “ other driver” is conventionally thought to refer to Mr. Call’s driver.
Black Bart’s “ disguise hat” was a flour sack over his head.
11 Mrs. Charles K. Wilson; she may have been a Kashaya Pomo Indian.
Before Russian times, the Kashaya Pomo village at Fort Ross was named
May- tee- nee.
27
12 Doña Maria de la Concepción Arguello, daughter of José Arguello, the
commandant of the Presidio of San Francisco in 1806, and Nikolai
Petrovich Rezanov, Imperial Chamberlain and Chief Executive of the
Russian American Company.
13 About this time Laura, Ethel, Mercedes, and the other young people
collaborated to put out a series of handwritten newspapers they called
“ The Ocean Wave,” which chronicled local, national, and international
events.
Editor’s Note: Laura’s manuscript was written in sections over a
six- year period. Consequently, there were repetitions within
sections and portions that were more properly related to other
sections. For continuity, the manuscript was dismantled and
then reordered, and some transitions and clarifying information
were inserted. These actions preserved the original wording
with very little change.
28
THE CALL FAMILY
Laura Call Carr was one of nine children born to Mercedes de
Leiva and George Washington Call, who bought Fort Ross in
1873 and operated it as a ranch, shipping port, and business
community.
George was born in Ohio in 1829, the sixth of eight children.
His father died when he was four years old, and when he was
14 he was put out on his own by his stepfather. Young George
worked his way through the Midwest, clerking, driving cattle,
rafting lumber, cutting wood, and even teaching school. In
1852, he headed for California, joining a cattle drive from St.
Joseph, Missouri. When he arrived, his capital, besides his “ gun,
pistol, and one spare woolen shirt, and one pair of blankets,
was one dollar.”
With a modest stake earned in the gold mining area, George set
out for Humboldt Bay where he turned a profit in logging. By
1855, he had enough funds to move to San Francisco and buy a
building that soon thereafter housed the popular menagerie of
Grizzly Adams ( with George as Grizzly’s silent partner). In 1858,
he sold his business interests and left for South America,
purchasing a schooner and taking with him two grizzly bears
from Adams’ collection to perform in bear and bull fights.
Leaving the bears in Peru, he continued his travels throughout
South America where he met Henry Meiggs, who was infamous
for his former business activities in San Francisco and Mendocino.
George arranged subcontract work with “ Honest Harry” to build
railroads in Chile and the rugged Andes in Peru. In 1865, he
settled in Chile, where he soon married and then established
that country’s first gunnysack factory.
Mercedes, born in Chile in 1850, was 15 years old when she
met and married George, who was then 36. Mercedes was an
orphan who was being raised by relatives— her mother had died
29
of pneumonia when Mercedes was quite young, and her father
of a fall from a cliff while trying to retrieve her pet sea gull. To
create an introduction to this young beauty, George purposely
stepped on and tore Mercedes’ dress at a dance. He later
appeared at the bakery where she worked with a new dress
over his arm. This tactic worked, leading to their marriage in
1866.
After the birth of their third child, the Calls sailed to San Francisco
in 1872. Shortly afterward, George purchased 2,500 acres at
Fort Ross, later adding another 5,500 acres. Under George’s
management, Fort Ross thrived. In addition to shipping and
ranching ( principally dairying) operations, the old buildings of
the Fort were converted and used as a hotel, dance hall, saloon,
store, post office, and telegraph office.
At Fort Ross, the family increased to include nine children: Ana
Rosa, or “ Nin” ( 1867), Emma Angelina ( 1869), and Oscar
Ambrose ( 1870) born in Chile; Mary Addie ( 1872) born in San
Francisco; and Lucy Minerva ( 1874), Laura ( 1877), Mercedes
( 1878), Carlos Asa ( 1880), and George Harry ( 1882) born at
Fort Ross. All completed high school in San Francisco. In
addition, all the girls received a teaching certificate from the
San Francisco Normal School and the boys a surveying certificate
from Van der Naillen’s School of San Francisco. Laura and Lucy
both wanted to go on to the University of California ( Laura in
law and Lucy in mathematics), but their father refused them
permission –“ My girls will be teachers and my boys, engineers.”
Some of the girls taught school at Fort Ross ( Mary for 14 years)
and elsewhere, but the boys were never employed as surveyors.
Two of the girls became members of the first San Francisco
Conservatory of Music, Emma playing the violin and Lucy, the
mandolin. Most of the girls married; some stayed in the Fort
Ross area, acquiring and helping run ranches with their husbands,
while others moved to the Santa Rosa and San Francisco areas.
30
Oscar left home when he was 21, never to be heard from again.
After their father’s death in 1907, Carlos and George took over
management of the shipping business, and they each also took
over management of half of the ranch until their deaths, leasing
the rights from their sisters.
Mercedes survived her husband and, among other activities,
occupied her time creating a garden of renowned beauty, which
flourished until her death in 1933. Many of her plants were
imported from South America, and the garden’s development
included her own hybrid pelargoniums. She was a friend of
Luther Burbank, and was one of the earliest members of the
American Fuschia Society.
Laura, known to her family and friends as “ Lol”, felt that her
four older sisters were much more beautiful and talented than
she. Her hand- me- down clothes ( including poorly fitting shoes)
contributed to this perception. She also suffered from eyestrain
and was not a good student in grammar school, although she
was naturally drawn to reading and writing. Her poor eyesight
was finally discovered and corrected with glasses, and then
reading and writing became an even more important part of
her life. She wrote poetry and articles, many of which were
published. She also took drawing lessons, and she became an
accomplished pianist. Her love of the outdoors and nature was
reflected in her writings, drawings, and activities as an amateur
botanist.
In 1907, Lol married teamster William ( Will) Henry Carr, one
of those “ rough looking men” in her narrative. They lived at
the “ Green House”, on the ridge some three miles from Fort
Ross, where Will ran a drayage business and Lol cooked for the
hired men and ran the household. Their first child, William
( Bill) Call, was born there in 1910.
When it came time for Bill to go to school, the Carr family
moved to Oakland where Will bought and ran a house- moving
31
business. Two other children were born there, Ross Uhl in 1913
and Laura Channell in 1918. The family then moved to
Sebastopol in 1920, where, as the children grew and were able
to help with the burdensome chores, Laura began to have spare
time again in which to write poems and stories and articles for
local publications; she also created a beautiful garden, following
her mother’s example. Laura’s life was abruptly altered in 1932
when her son, Ross, was killed in a motorcycle accident and
Will, unable to cope with the loss and in financial difficulty, left
his family, never to return. To make ends meet, Laura took in
boarders, and the surviving children took after- school jobs.
Then, in 1945, Laura’s remaining son, Bill, a major in the U. S.
Army Corps of Engineers, was killed in action in Germany.
Deeply as she felt these losses, in time Laura recovered her keen
Call children about 1900 ( except Oscar, about 1880).
( Courtesy Viva Leiva Tomlin collection)
32
sense of life and spent the remainder of her life sharing with her
family and friends her poetry and music, her love of flowers
and nature, her childhood secrets and tricks, and her memories
of Fort Ross.
Laura wrote this reminiscence between 1960 and her death in
1966. It was written with the encouragement and support of
her granddaughter, Emma Nell Denten, and is one of the few
written accounts of life at Fort Ross when it was operated as a
ranch.
The Calls were the last of the Ranch Era owners of Fort Ross
who came after the Russians, and they, like many others, came
to have a special attachment to “ the Fort”. While they, too,
modified and used the old buildings, they also began the process
of trying to protect the historic buildings from disintegration.
Their most significant work was the refurbishment of the chapel,
which was subsequently used from time to time for services in
the late 1890s and 1900s. But the decay of the old buildings
was too extensive for the Calls to rectify, so George W. Call
accepted the offer of the California Landmarks Committee to
buy the Fort in 1903 as a solution to save the site. By 1906,
after passing through William Randolph Hearst’s hands, the Fort
was deeded to the organization that was to become the
California Department of Parks and Recreation. Shortly
afterward, the great earthquake wrought severe damage that
took many years and great effort to repair.
In 1962, Fort Ross State Historic Park was designated as a
National Historic Landmark, and it was about that time that
the State of California began to acquire more property from the
Call family to add to it. In 1979, the family disposed of the last
of their ranch holdings at Fort Ross, thus ending an era of over
100 years.
F. Kaye Tomlin
San Mateo, California
January 1987
33
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Call Family consultants: Emma Nell Denten, Laurie Carr Horn,
Mercedes Pearce Stafford, F. Kaye Tomlin
Editor/ Book Design: Phyllis F. Dorset
Graphic Design:
Russell H. Griswold - front cover, Fort Ross as Laura
Call Knew It ( p. 19); and map inside back cover
Frieda Tomlin - Photo setting for Call children
Typesetting & Layout: McLean Associates
Editing Update and Computer Layout for Second Printing, 2004:
Lyn Kalani
Southeast blockhouse sketched by Laura Call about 1897.
( Courtesy Laurie Carr Horn)
34
Fort Ross and environs.
Click tabs to swap between content that is broken into logical sections.
| Title | My life at Fort Ross 1877-1907 |
| Creator | Carr, Laura Call |
| Type of object | Manuscript |
| Subject |
Call, George, 1829-1907 Carr, Laura Call, 1877-1966 Fort Ross |
| Region | Sonoma County (California) |
| Original source | Fort Ross Interpretive Association |
| Place of publication/Origin | Fort Ross, California |
| Date created | 1987 |
| Date of reprint | 2004 |
| Location ID | 012-01-001 |
| Source collection | Gaye LeBaron Collection |
| Digital collection | Gaye LeBaron Digital Collection |
| Repository | Sonoma State University Library ; Rohnert Park, California |
| Related resources |
Call, George Washington & family (Gaye LeBaron Collection file folder) Fort Ross - General (Gaye LeBaron Collection file folder) Fort Ross - History (Gaye LeBaron Collection file folder) |
| Copyright statement | Restrictions may apply. For more information see http://library.sonoma.edu/regional/lebaron/copyright.php |
| Copyright holder | © Fort Ross Interpretive Association |
| Digital reproduction | Original document scanned at 300 dpi-Displayed in Adobe pdf format at 150 dpi |
| Date digitized | October 30, 2007 |
| Transcript | Published by the Fort Ross Interpretive Association, Inc.; 19005 Coast Highway One ; Jenner, CA 95450 ; © 1987 Fort Ross Interpretive Association ; ISBN 0- 9617973- 3- 9 ; Second Printing, 2004 ; Printed by Seraphim Rose Press ; Fort Ross Interpretive Association ; Cover: Laura Call Carr, taken in March 1901, when she was 24 years old. ( Courtesy Laurie Carr Horn); My Life At Fort Ross: The Years 1877- 1907 ; Laura Call Carr ; The Fort Ross I write of is not the Fort Ross of today. All the images are gone and cold; today it is statistically correct, clean fact established by research and history. The area heading to the stockade is usually filled with glittering cars, chattering, hurrying people being directed to what they must see and where they can find something to eat or drink— changing direction every few minutes as all our lives do today. ; My Fort Ross is peopled with different sorts of beings. They are shadowy now. They move slowly and easily. They have no place in the hurry and bustle of today. There was a glamour about them— from my father, who dominated the picture, and my mother, who so perfectly complemented him, down to the least of those who lived and visited there. ; This is not a history; it is a collection of my memories of Fort Ross as I knew it long ago. There were nine of us children. I was sixth in line, followed by a sister and two brothers. We were solidly bound into a family and united in everything we did.; My earliest remembrance of the Russian buildings is as follows. The chapel was in fair shape, not just as it is now; it has been restored by data and reasoning. The two block houses were sadly in need of repair. The southerly one was not as badly crumbled as the other, which was blocked off so that no one would get hurt— the logs were falling and the building leaned badly. 3 The Fort Ross Hotel and guests, with two- story addition ( the “ old” house) about 1880. ( Fort Ross State Historic Park Archives) The southeast side of the stockade held a row of buildings that were used as stables and wagon sheds. Within the stockade, the side where the commandant’s house1 still stands contained a granary and two additions to the original buildings, one a two- story affair, our family’s first home at Fort Ross and later part of the hotel, where one of my sisters and I were born. Next to the hotel was a long narrow building. 2 The front part was used as a saloon; next was the mysterious “ back room”, which we spoke of in whispers and were never allowed to enter. Beyond that was a men’s washroom, with a long wooden sink and tin basins. Then there were two or three “ bedrooms” and behind these was a lovely little wind- protected garden with a gate with a weight to keep it shut. The large, two- story granary3 had wide, heavily planked steps that led to the upper floor. I remember potatoes were kept in the upper part. The lower part was divided into a wagon shed and a dance hall. This hall had a wonderfully smooth- boarded floor, benches all around it, and a small dais or stage where 4 musicians sat. Before I learned to dance, we used to roller skate there. The George Morgan family, who ran the hotel in the commandant’s house and its two- story addition, had three boys and three girls. The Morgan children let us use their skates if we would give them rusks, or light biscuits, which Dominica Bellotti, our cook, made so well. Outside the stockade, on the western side, was a beautiful garden laid out in neat beds with well kept rows of vegetables and flowers. It was enclosed with a heavy fence made of boards nailed on lengthwise. There was a neat little summerhouse4 with latticed sides and little “ briderose” ( Cecile Brunner) found now only near very old houses around the state. Also outside the stockade were a slaughterhouse, a small cabin, and a building used as a store, post office, and telegraph office. The Indians had lived in small huts outside the stockade, but when I was born these were all gone. In front of the saloon, 1884: on horseback ( left) John Daly ( right) John Doda; standing ( left to right) patrons Mrs. George Morgan holding daughter Vida, George Morgan, three patrons, and W. C. Morgan; seated ( left to right) Lucille Morgan, Ethel Morgan, Raymond Morgan. Behind the saloon are the two-story addition ( left) and granary ( right). ( Courtesy Viva Leiva Tomlin collection) 5 When my parents came to Fort Ross there were four children, three born in Chile ( Ana, Rosa, Emma, and Oscar) and one in San Francisco ( Mary). Two of us were born in the two- story addition to the commandant’s house ( Lucy and me), and the youngest girl ( Mercedes, called “ Ceda”) and my two brothers ( Carlos and George) arrived in the “ new” house, 5 built in 1878. There were no trees on the site; we planted most of them. I believe we planted all except the willows that grew in the little creek where my father built the new house. He planted the weeping willows there from slips brought from the Russian orchard, which was about three- quarters of a mile from the house. The northwest wind was prevalent and trees did not thrive on the level land that was exposed to it, so on the slight rise that existed northwest of the house, my father had a windbreak of cypress planted. I remember the young trees being unloaded from the schooner, and several men planting them, and I remember again how we children watered all five hundred trees every day for what seemed an eternity. I think every one grew, but they had quite a struggle in one rocky place where the road once went. Looking toward the schoolhouse ( left) and the Call’s “ new” house ( right) about 1895. ( Courtesy Viva Leiva Tomlin collection) 6 The Call family and friends on the front porch of the “ new” house about 1905: standing on the porch ( left to right) Ceda Call, Ramona Pearce, Dorena Gottschalk, Phoebe Bowers; seated on the top steps ( left to right) Laura Call, Carlos Call; seated on the lower steps ( left to right) Emma Call, Lucy Call, Mary Call; standing ( left) George W. Call, ( right) Mercedes L. Call. ( Courtesy Mercedes Pearce Stafford) My father was a father in every sense of the word. He was a student and a scholar; he lived for his family. He was a big, heavy set man about six feet tall, and weighed about 200 pounds. He was not fat; he was just big, heavily muscled, and sturdy. He always wore a woolen business suit, stiff white shirts with detachable collars, a tie, made- to- order boots, a derby hat, and carried a heavy cane and a set of keys. He took long walks about the ranch and always brought home interesting things to tell us, but I never knew him to do any ranch work, except in his later days to saw wood for exercise. He could not hitch up a horse, nor milk a cow, nor plant trees or vegetables. He spent most of his time in his office working on his bookkeeping or reading. 7 He had a good business head— he was a lawyer, mentor, and advisor to anyone who sought him out. His word was his bond; he was impartial and just. Once a month he went to San Francisco or Santa Rosa on business. Everybody who knew him came to him for advice as to business deals, law practice, or when they got into trouble, just as they turned to my mother for counsel in births, deaths, and marriage affairs. He abhorred personal publicity. When my brother Carlos risked his life on a dark stormy night to carry a lifeline to a vessel on the rocks, 6 thereby saving six lives, he would not let him accept a Carnegie medal. I always believed God must be just like Papa, even to the dicer hat and full beard. My mother was sixteen when she married my father, the “ gringo” who was twenty years older. She had dark hair and sparkling black eyes; she was five feet tall and perhaps 100 pounds or more. She was an orphan and had had no advantages, and almost no schooling. But Mama had a good business mind, a quick wit, and lot of good common sense. She was a natural cook and had a love of the beautiful, which showed itself in her handwork and garden. She was a wonderful mother. She never raised a hand to us, and never scolded us. We were an extremely harmonious family. The orchards, the haying, the dairy, calves and hogs and chickens, and the clearing of land kept everybody busy. Then there was the business of cutting wood, for that was our only fuel. Every fall the hay fields and orchards were plowed and seeded with grain, for feed for the horses and cows. It was a big operation and an important one, because the cows had to be fed through the fall months after the grass had been eaten off in summer. After the hay was harvested in June and July, the apples began to ripen. The orchards bore abundantly, and we had a great many apples of all kinds. Our favorite was from the trees planted by the Russians, an early, very juicy, striped apple, which we later learned was a Gravenstein. The cows 8 Cattle being driven past the Call house about 1900; note the schoolhouse across old Coast Road in background. ( Courtesy Laurie Carr Horn) and hogs ate those which fell from the trees. Some of the cows would shake the trees when they could reach the limbs. The men would later gather the apples, and they were stored on shelves in a cool dark building built for that purpose. We had apples until April. The Russian orchard still has apples and pears. The larger orchard ( 1,800 apple trees), planted by William Otto Benitz, an earlier owner, was on a higher slope. When the trees and brush that protected the Benitz orchard from the coastal winds were later cleared away, most of the apple trees died. We lived in a world of our own creation: of natural history, of games which we ourselves invented. We explored that part of the ranch which was near the house. We drew maps and pictures of the town and named every little creek, path, and tiny waterfall. We gathered wild flowers, and we brought home shells and seaweed from the beaches and built “ ranches and dairies” on the front porch. On Sunday mornings we went to 9 Bathing at the Sandy Beach about 1900 ( Courtesy Mercedes Pearce Stafford) the wonderful Sandy Beach, where we learned about the small creatures that dwelled there and which we studied under lamplight in Cassel’s History from my father’s bookshelves. Sometimes we walked as far as “ Q” beach, about a mile, and to Kolmer Gulch, a mile in the other direction. We went exploring up the creeks, stopping at the old coal mine and daring ourselves to go in. But we were never brave enough. We may have gone in about six feet, but no farther. What might be in there? The boys thought there might be bear, but what I feared I might meet was something very eerie, not of this world. I was sure there was a ghost or a witch or something of that sort there, because often, after a rain shower, I saw the witches’ smoke rising from the trees, and I looked fearfully but kept tight hold of the posts on the porch so that if a witch came, it would have to take the whole house if it took me. Reading and music were a prominent part of our lives. Uncle Ambrose Call in the East7 sent my family a square grand piano around the Horn. It was put into the new house as it was being built, and the house was built around it ( and it remains there today). It was a source of great pleasure to us all. My two 10 older sisters, Ana Rosa and Emma, were proficient pianists. As we grew up, we formed a quartet, which gave the family an additional source of enjoyment. Every Friday evening we had an hour of singing. We met at our house and on alternate weeks at the hotel. We spent many happy evenings there. My sister Emma and I played the piano, while my brother George played the harmonica, or W. C. “ Uncle Billy” Morgan, the brother of the hotel operator and a gallant, well- mannered storekeeper of the old school, played the fiddle. In one of our games, everything that we were associated with had not only a name but a tune. My sister Emma would play the piano. She was always the interlocutor, the leader. She sat at the piano and one of us would interpret the story as she played it. We used these songs as a secret code to communicate to each other when we wanted to tell of an arrival, or about someone, or a place to go. We even used it quietly at the dinner table, where our father kept us silent and obedient. If we disobeyed, he silently got up from his chair, walked around the table and snapped us sharply on the head. My sister, Mary, sat next to Papa and was able to make faces and cause us all to laugh and therefore be punished by a “ snip”. Papa dished up our food, and we ate it all. But I always picked out the onions and hid them under the edge of my plate, secretly slipping them into my palm as I was excused from the table. Happy Point, sketched by Laura Call about 1897. ( Courtesy Laurie Carr Horn) 11 As the family grew and education became a problem, my father built another two- room building, known as “ the cottage” 8; one room was a schoolroom and the other room was a laundry, with a long bench of tubs and a stove for “ boiling” the white clothes. To open the school, we had to have fifteen children, and to maintain it we had to have five to ten in daily attendance. Children from the neighboring ranches came in to attend school. I do not remember ever having associated with any outsiders before that time. It was my first day of school, and I laughed so much and so loudly that I was dismissed as being too young. After a few weeks of public school in our yard, my father built another schoolhouse a short distance away, where we all went to school until we were ready for high school. Our communication with the outside world was the telegraph, which reached to Duncans Mills, the daily stage, and the little schooner, which carried ranch produce to San Francisco and brought back provisions, seed grain, and other ranch and household necessities. Papa purchased the telegraph, and in time also became owner of the stage line and several schooners. Fort Ross School class about 1890; ( front row, left to right) Ross Morgan, George H. Call, and Vida Morgan; ( back row) Raymond Morgan, Carlos Call, Lucille Morgan, Ceda Call, Ethel Morgan, and Emma Call ( teacher). ( Courtesy Mercedes Pearce Stafford) 12 Vessels anchored in Fort Ross Bay about 1890, ( clockwise) Albion ( scow schooner), schooner Christina Steffins, and schooner Portia. ( Courtesy Viva Leiva Tomlin collection) Schooner day was a big day. On these days Captain Botcher of the Euphemia, the most frequent visitor in the little sheltered bay, was our dinner guest, and it was a great event for us. What a thrill it was to watch the trim little vessel sail into the bay and drop her anchor. Once the ship was anchored, some of the crew jumped into the little boats and carried three lines to various points on the shore, which held her steady. She was then warped under the chute that extended out into the bay. When the ship was secure, the apron was let down so that it rested on the schooner’s deck and the unloading began. A line attached to a small flat car was hitched to horses on the bluff and lowered down the chute to the schooner. The goods and provisions were then loaded onto the car, and the horses pulled the car up the chute. To load the ship, a drag, pulled by a single horse, would carry a load from its proper row on the bank over to the chute and dump it down the incline. I watched breathlessly, expecting to see the load jump over the deck into the water, but it never did. When the schooner was loaded, the apron was lifted, the ship warped out again, the lines untied, 13 and the sails unreefed and spread to the wind. Slowly at first, but gaining momentum as she reached open water, away she went. On windy days, these small coastal vessels tacked up the coast, very much as one climbs a steep hill by zigzagging back and forth. What excitement there was when a steam vessel went by and we could read her name with the binoculars. We grew to know them all by the markings on their smoke funnels. But the wind- propelled vessels were much more interesting to me— a lesson in painstaking navigation as they came near the land and the flapping of the sails as they went about on a tack out to sea again. I watched them out of sight and never grew tired of speculating on their comings and goings. One rainy stormy day older sister and I were in the parlor. She was practicing the piano, and I was watching. She played Barcarolle and explained to me that it was a boat song. Just then there was a commotion. My father came in to tell us that a fishing boat had been driven into the bay near the chute by the storm and was foundering. Our men were going to let the rope ladder down from the apron on the end of the chute so Steam schooner sketched by Laura Call about 1897. ( Courtesy Emma Neil Denten) 14 that the fishermen could get ashore. It was raining so hard that we could not see the ocean. But we did see two men being half- carried past our house to the hotel, water dripping from their hair, their clothes half torn off. A third man had dropped off the rope and was never found. Hearing a barcarolle brings it all back vividly. Some days we sat on the steps of the front porch of the house and watched the heavy wagons pass, drawn by four or six horses, loaded with cord wood, tanbark, or posts and grape stakes. Some of the lead horses wore bells. We could hear them before the wagons rounded the corner. The rough looking men who drove these wagons wore dark shirts, overalls held up by suspenders, high boots, and slouch hats. 9 The teams went slowly as they pulled the heavily laden wagons up the little grade before they went down to the chute where the forest products were unloaded and stacked in neat rows. On the return trips they went faster. But before they climbed up the three mile road to the ridge, the men stopped over at the store and saloon where the drivers did their shopping and “ had a nip”. Teamsters driving past the saloon about 1904, ( left) Tim Brown, ( right) Will Carr, later to be Laura Call’s husband. ( Courtesy Laurie Carr Horn) 15 Team and wagon driven by Will Carr about 1900; note bells on the horses’ harnesses. ( Courtesy Laurie Carr Horn) Sometimes a buggy with a well- dressed man passed by at a smart trot. And every day the stage came by, in the morning going down the coast, and in the afternoon up again to Timber Cove, Salt Point, and other places with alluring names. On one of my father’s monthly trips to San Francisco, where he had business interests, he telegraphed up to Stewarts Point and learned that the stage going down the coast was full and he could not have a seat. So he had the foreman hitch a span of horses to a light buggy and drive him to Duncans Mills to catch the train. As the buggy rattled across a bridge over a small stream, a man rushed out from under the bridge, stopped the buggy and asked when the stage was coming. Then, after receiving the answer, he grabbed up a short bundle and disappeared up the bank. When the stage came by a little later, the man, who was later identified as Black Bart, held it up with a short barreled shotgun. 10 Later, when my father told us the story we shivered with apprehension. A few years afterward, 16 Black Bart held up the stage on another nearby road. Places of the first holdup are today still known as “ Black Bart Turn” and “ Shotgun Point”. Since my mother had so many children, she had no time for housework, so we had a succession of cooks, governesses, and hired men. When we lived in the “ old” house ( the hotel), she had Chinese servants. When we moved to the present house, which had a men’s dining room, we had a succession of hired help, always a man and wife. The wife did the cooking, serving the family of twelve ( for there was also a governess) and the men’s table of four, or more depending on the occasion. Her husband took care of the garden, the wood used for fuel, the horses, and the family cow. At the dairy there were eighty or more cows, and six men who “ did” for themselves. There was a foreman, John Doda, a buttermaker, and four boys, including Isadore Minetti, all Swiss. We also had a ranch foreman, John Daly, who lived with his wife in a cottage on the place. Some interesting characters peopled our lives such as the man and wife who would not work on Sunday, the old woman who chewed raw rice, the woman who brought her big dog Cazadero- to- Sea View stage, about 1907; taken near Sea View. ( Courtesy Mercedes Pearce Stafford) 17 which was accused of killing the neighbor’s sheep, the devout woman who let us kiss the “ little white lady” statue if we would help with the dishes, the Army deserter who sneaked up to the Fort with his new wife ( my father prevailed upon him to give himself up but recommended leniency, so that was taken care of). Then there was the old man who chased us with a knife when we taunted him by mispronouncing his name and enjoying his discomfort as he was cutting the carcass of the beef which had been butchered the day before ( of course, my father did not keep him any longer, but as I remember we did not escape 18 punishment either). And I remember Mrs. Wilson, a chubby little Mexican woman11 smiling and happy, who was always in the house when a new baby arrived. She told us that she brought the babies with her, picking them out of the cabbage patch, a hollow log, a tree stump, or out of the creek. Each time she told us a different baby came from a different place. She lived about a mile away, right on the edge of the woods, where I never doubted that she could go and pick out a baby anytime she needed one. Fort Ross, as Laura Call knew it ( modern rendition from the original drawing, printed in “ History of Sonoma County” by Thompson and West, 1870s edition) 19 Looking from the schoolhouse toward the “ new” house and the Fort about 1907. ( Courtesy Mercedes Pearce Stafford) Then there was old Leroy Piver, whom I used to think of as a giant, who peered at us through his bushy eyebrows and had tobacco stained whiskers. He was over six feet tall and could tell the most marvelous tales, which I firmly believed. Once, he said, he sat down to rest on a log and grasped a branch which grew out of it, but lo, the log was a big deer and it jumped up and took him for a most marvelous ride. To me, anyone who came from any place but Fort Ross was as unreal as my “ fairies and ghosts”. But as I passed my childhood days, I began to realize not only the natural beauty of this place that was my home but the heretofore unreal existence of the “ Russians”. I discovered that Fort Ross had a history. I learned about the romance between the lovely Spanish girl and the brilliant Russian officer, 12 and about Princess Helena, her home, her personality, and perhaps her loneliness. The Aleut otter hunters, the boat builders, the Indians who had lived outside the stockade all came alive, and I lived with them and walked with them. I dreamed of them by night and by day. 20 Occasionally, someone from away would come to see the Russian chapel, and I was sometimes delegated to unlock the door. Once a woman looked in and said, “ Oh my, it’s just an old neglected house. What’s so wonderful about that?” and I said, “ I have to lock the door now, so you will have to leave.” But I was thrilled when someone would enter, cross himself, touch the walls, go up into the loft, measure the planks on the floor, or just sit and look at it. One day we were playing in the old granary when some visitors came in. When one of the women looked at the battered old banner across the make- shift stage that read “ El Fuerto de Los Rusos” and exclaimed “ Oh, the Feast of the Roses!” something happened to me. I was astounded that someone as elegant looking as she was did not know the history of the Fort and that the banner read “ The Fort of the Russians”. Never again did I feel unimportant. How triumphant I felt. What a wonderful height I suddenly possessed. I’d like to feel that way once again. Fort Ross chapel and barn about 1895; ( left to right) W. C. Morgan, Oscar N. Charles, and Mary Call. ( Courtesy Viva Leiva Tomlin collection) 21 At one time, Gertrude Atherton spent the winter at Fort Ross to gather material for her story, “ The Doomswoman”. We were not permitted to make friends with strangers, and she was a public personage and might be “ doubtful”. She walked about the cliffs in rainy and foggy weather dressed in long black garments. To me she was fascinating because she was so mysterious. She hired my brother and a boy from the hotel to dig up one of the Russian graves. She wanted “ an officer in full uniform”. However, my father stopped this adventure, and she became “ rather annoyed”. I had hoped that my father would let her do it, as I too, would have liked to have seen the officer. The time came for us to go to San Francisco for high school. My two older sisters and brother boarded in San Francisco and were not happy about it. When the second pair of girls went, one of them became very ill from homesickness. So my father About to begin a stroll up the old Coast Road from the Fort and the “ new” house, 1899, ( left to right) Isadore Minetti, Laura Call, Rosa Call, Carlos Call, Lucy Call, and Ceda Call. ( Courtesy Mercedes Pearce Stafford) 22 Strolling up old Coast Road 1899, ( left to right) Laura Call, Emma Call, Lucy Call, Rosa Call, and William H. Turk ( later to become the first State Park Ranger at Fort Ross). ( Courtesy Mercedes Pearce Stafford) bought a house in San Francisco, and we all moved down there in December and stayed until the first of March. Most of us hated it. Only when we saw the hills and redwoods as we rode the narrow gauge railroad through Occidental to Cazadero on the way home to Fort Ross did we begin to feel better. Two of the hotel keeper’s girls were about my age and from them I learned some very interesting things that I knew were talked about by the women, because they always stopped talking about them when I came into the room. Ethel Morgan was nearest my age, in years, but twice as old in sophistication. Ethel and my sister Mercedes and I generally got something to eat and then found a very “ secret” place, most often the old summerhouse where Ethel told us stories of “ real things” that happened in the hotel, but that we must never, never tell anyone. During this time we began going to school in San Francisco every winter, and Ethel had lots to tell me. 13 We came back one spring to find a boy had come to live at the hotel and work for his board. I never met him since we were not allowed out 23 of our yard, but Ethel convinced me that he was “ Prince Charming” in the flesh. One day she told me in tears that her father had sent him away, but he had promised he was coming back for her some dark night and she was going to climb out of the window and run away with him. One dark night he did come back, but not for her. He sawed the lock out of the saloon door, took money, a gun, and liquor, and stole away again. The dogs knew him so they made no noise. He was later caught and spent some time in jail. We never heard of him again. We girls were more grown up now and began being less inventive and patterning ourselves more on girls we had met at school. We still went after abalone, trout, and clams, and strawberries, blackberries, and fruit, but our horizons had widened. The circle that was Fort Ross now had roads leading out of it that held romance, adventure, and people. We were allowed to go horseback riding, to go to dances, and to have company for the summer from San Francisco. Horses then Off to explore the countryside August 1906, ( left to right) Kathryn Kaiser Call on Rex, Flora McLaughlin on Betty, Ceda Call on Prince, and Laura Call on Lindy. ( Courtesy Laurie Carr Horn) 24 Laura and Lindy September 1906. ( Courtesy Laurie Carr Horn) became important to us. We explored the country on horseback and knew all the trails and byways. Some of my fondest memories are of Prince, hard- mouthed but manageable; the little mustang, Gypsy, who had to trot to keep up; Oro, half crazy but spirited and tireless; and my beloved little sorrel mare, Lindy, snappish and balky, but a joy to ride, for she was sound in wind and limb, and a singlefooter to boot. Looking back, we had so much in our lives. Fort Ross was the world when I was young. The forest- topped mountains to the eastern horizon and the ocean before us— a private, romantic world. Some days I would sit on the front porch and look at the ever- moving, ever- changing ocean, which swept across the entire western horizon, wondering what lay beyond it. Where did it all go, that romantic glamour, the wonderful sunsets from Sunset Rock, the limitless sea whence the Russians had vanished? It’s so long ago, my childhood, but never gone from my dreams and memories. 25 At Old Fort Ross by Laura Call Carr, 1899 At old Fort Ross I musing stand The sea, the wood, on either hand And all around seems good and grand and wondrous fair The rising moon, so full and bright Shines down benignly from her height Upon the ocean, sleeping white and silvery there. Calm peace the moonlit air doth fill. Upon the quaint old church so still Is outlined against the wooded hill a slender cross. And past the gulch, upon the steep Where Russian warriors now sleep A tall shaft doth its vigil keep at old Fort Ross. The watch towers crumbling with decay Lean where their builders sailed away With low- bowed heads they seem to pray o’er soulfelt loss. Across the waves on far Point Reyes I see the faithful lighthouse blaze: But for an instant falls its rays on old Fort Ross. Symbolic of our hopes and fears Of joys and sorrows, smiles and tears The never- ending lapse of years the wild waves toss. Wherever I may chance to roam In crowded street, by ocean’s foam My heart will still remember home and old Fort Ross… 26 Footnotes 1 The Rotchev House. 2 The Officials’ Quarters. 3 The granary was the Russian warehouse. 4 The summerhouse and garden probably had their origin at the time Princess Helena Gagarina Rotchev lived at Fort Ross ( 1836- 1841). The Princess was the wife of the last Russian manager at Fort Ross, Alexander Gavrilovich Rotchev. 5 The Call House – the portion of this house that was the kitchen and two dining rooms was originally part of the old buildings, which were added to the Russian buildings by owners previous to the Calls. 6 The schooner, J. Eppinger, wrecked in 1901. 7 Founder, along with his brother, Asa, of Algona, Iowa ( 1854); q. v., Call State Park, Algona, Iowa. 8 Today called the Cottage. 9 Laura ultimately married one of the stalwart fellows, William Henry Carr, in 1907. 10 A notorious highwayman in California in the late 1870s. On August 3, 1877 he held up the stage that ran between Point Arena and Duncans Mills at Timber Gulch, a spot 2.5 miles down the coast from Fort Ross. He left a poem at the site (“ I’ve labored long and hard for bread/ For honor and for riches/ But on my corns too long you’ve tred/ You fine-haired sons of bitches”) to which he added a postscript: “ Driver, give my respects to our friend, the other driver; but I really had a notion to hang my old disguise hat on his weather eye.” The highwayman signed the poem “ Black Bart, the PO8”, thus identifying himself for the first time. The “ other driver” is conventionally thought to refer to Mr. Call’s driver. Black Bart’s “ disguise hat” was a flour sack over his head. 11 Mrs. Charles K. Wilson; she may have been a Kashaya Pomo Indian. Before Russian times, the Kashaya Pomo village at Fort Ross was named May- tee- nee. 27 12 Doña Maria de la Concepción Arguello, daughter of José Arguello, the commandant of the Presidio of San Francisco in 1806, and Nikolai Petrovich Rezanov, Imperial Chamberlain and Chief Executive of the Russian American Company. 13 About this time Laura, Ethel, Mercedes, and the other young people collaborated to put out a series of handwritten newspapers they called “ The Ocean Wave,” which chronicled local, national, and international events. Editor’s Note: Laura’s manuscript was written in sections over a six- year period. Consequently, there were repetitions within sections and portions that were more properly related to other sections. For continuity, the manuscript was dismantled and then reordered, and some transitions and clarifying information were inserted. These actions preserved the original wording with very little change. 28 THE CALL FAMILY Laura Call Carr was one of nine children born to Mercedes de Leiva and George Washington Call, who bought Fort Ross in 1873 and operated it as a ranch, shipping port, and business community. George was born in Ohio in 1829, the sixth of eight children. His father died when he was four years old, and when he was 14 he was put out on his own by his stepfather. Young George worked his way through the Midwest, clerking, driving cattle, rafting lumber, cutting wood, and even teaching school. In 1852, he headed for California, joining a cattle drive from St. Joseph, Missouri. When he arrived, his capital, besides his “ gun, pistol, and one spare woolen shirt, and one pair of blankets, was one dollar.” With a modest stake earned in the gold mining area, George set out for Humboldt Bay where he turned a profit in logging. By 1855, he had enough funds to move to San Francisco and buy a building that soon thereafter housed the popular menagerie of Grizzly Adams ( with George as Grizzly’s silent partner). In 1858, he sold his business interests and left for South America, purchasing a schooner and taking with him two grizzly bears from Adams’ collection to perform in bear and bull fights. Leaving the bears in Peru, he continued his travels throughout South America where he met Henry Meiggs, who was infamous for his former business activities in San Francisco and Mendocino. George arranged subcontract work with “ Honest Harry” to build railroads in Chile and the rugged Andes in Peru. In 1865, he settled in Chile, where he soon married and then established that country’s first gunnysack factory. Mercedes, born in Chile in 1850, was 15 years old when she met and married George, who was then 36. Mercedes was an orphan who was being raised by relatives— her mother had died 29 of pneumonia when Mercedes was quite young, and her father of a fall from a cliff while trying to retrieve her pet sea gull. To create an introduction to this young beauty, George purposely stepped on and tore Mercedes’ dress at a dance. He later appeared at the bakery where she worked with a new dress over his arm. This tactic worked, leading to their marriage in 1866. After the birth of their third child, the Calls sailed to San Francisco in 1872. Shortly afterward, George purchased 2,500 acres at Fort Ross, later adding another 5,500 acres. Under George’s management, Fort Ross thrived. In addition to shipping and ranching ( principally dairying) operations, the old buildings of the Fort were converted and used as a hotel, dance hall, saloon, store, post office, and telegraph office. At Fort Ross, the family increased to include nine children: Ana Rosa, or “ Nin” ( 1867), Emma Angelina ( 1869), and Oscar Ambrose ( 1870) born in Chile; Mary Addie ( 1872) born in San Francisco; and Lucy Minerva ( 1874), Laura ( 1877), Mercedes ( 1878), Carlos Asa ( 1880), and George Harry ( 1882) born at Fort Ross. All completed high school in San Francisco. In addition, all the girls received a teaching certificate from the San Francisco Normal School and the boys a surveying certificate from Van der Naillen’s School of San Francisco. Laura and Lucy both wanted to go on to the University of California ( Laura in law and Lucy in mathematics), but their father refused them permission –“ My girls will be teachers and my boys, engineers.” Some of the girls taught school at Fort Ross ( Mary for 14 years) and elsewhere, but the boys were never employed as surveyors. Two of the girls became members of the first San Francisco Conservatory of Music, Emma playing the violin and Lucy, the mandolin. Most of the girls married; some stayed in the Fort Ross area, acquiring and helping run ranches with their husbands, while others moved to the Santa Rosa and San Francisco areas. 30 Oscar left home when he was 21, never to be heard from again. After their father’s death in 1907, Carlos and George took over management of the shipping business, and they each also took over management of half of the ranch until their deaths, leasing the rights from their sisters. Mercedes survived her husband and, among other activities, occupied her time creating a garden of renowned beauty, which flourished until her death in 1933. Many of her plants were imported from South America, and the garden’s development included her own hybrid pelargoniums. She was a friend of Luther Burbank, and was one of the earliest members of the American Fuschia Society. Laura, known to her family and friends as “ Lol”, felt that her four older sisters were much more beautiful and talented than she. Her hand- me- down clothes ( including poorly fitting shoes) contributed to this perception. She also suffered from eyestrain and was not a good student in grammar school, although she was naturally drawn to reading and writing. Her poor eyesight was finally discovered and corrected with glasses, and then reading and writing became an even more important part of her life. She wrote poetry and articles, many of which were published. She also took drawing lessons, and she became an accomplished pianist. Her love of the outdoors and nature was reflected in her writings, drawings, and activities as an amateur botanist. In 1907, Lol married teamster William ( Will) Henry Carr, one of those “ rough looking men” in her narrative. They lived at the “ Green House”, on the ridge some three miles from Fort Ross, where Will ran a drayage business and Lol cooked for the hired men and ran the household. Their first child, William ( Bill) Call, was born there in 1910. When it came time for Bill to go to school, the Carr family moved to Oakland where Will bought and ran a house- moving 31 business. Two other children were born there, Ross Uhl in 1913 and Laura Channell in 1918. The family then moved to Sebastopol in 1920, where, as the children grew and were able to help with the burdensome chores, Laura began to have spare time again in which to write poems and stories and articles for local publications; she also created a beautiful garden, following her mother’s example. Laura’s life was abruptly altered in 1932 when her son, Ross, was killed in a motorcycle accident and Will, unable to cope with the loss and in financial difficulty, left his family, never to return. To make ends meet, Laura took in boarders, and the surviving children took after- school jobs. Then, in 1945, Laura’s remaining son, Bill, a major in the U. S. Army Corps of Engineers, was killed in action in Germany. Deeply as she felt these losses, in time Laura recovered her keen Call children about 1900 ( except Oscar, about 1880). ( Courtesy Viva Leiva Tomlin collection) 32 sense of life and spent the remainder of her life sharing with her family and friends her poetry and music, her love of flowers and nature, her childhood secrets and tricks, and her memories of Fort Ross. Laura wrote this reminiscence between 1960 and her death in 1966. It was written with the encouragement and support of her granddaughter, Emma Nell Denten, and is one of the few written accounts of life at Fort Ross when it was operated as a ranch. The Calls were the last of the Ranch Era owners of Fort Ross who came after the Russians, and they, like many others, came to have a special attachment to “ the Fort”. While they, too, modified and used the old buildings, they also began the process of trying to protect the historic buildings from disintegration. Their most significant work was the refurbishment of the chapel, which was subsequently used from time to time for services in the late 1890s and 1900s. But the decay of the old buildings was too extensive for the Calls to rectify, so George W. Call accepted the offer of the California Landmarks Committee to buy the Fort in 1903 as a solution to save the site. By 1906, after passing through William Randolph Hearst’s hands, the Fort was deeded to the organization that was to become the California Department of Parks and Recreation. Shortly afterward, the great earthquake wrought severe damage that took many years and great effort to repair. In 1962, Fort Ross State Historic Park was designated as a National Historic Landmark, and it was about that time that the State of California began to acquire more property from the Call family to add to it. In 1979, the family disposed of the last of their ranch holdings at Fort Ross, thus ending an era of over 100 years. F. Kaye Tomlin San Mateo, California January 1987 33 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Call Family consultants: Emma Nell Denten, Laurie Carr Horn, Mercedes Pearce Stafford, F. Kaye Tomlin Editor/ Book Design: Phyllis F. Dorset Graphic Design: Russell H. Griswold - front cover, Fort Ross as Laura Call Knew It ( p. 19); and map inside back cover Frieda Tomlin - Photo setting for Call children Typesetting & Layout: McLean Associates Editing Update and Computer Layout for Second Printing, 2004: Lyn Kalani Southeast blockhouse sketched by Laura Call about 1897. ( Courtesy Laurie Carr Horn) 34 Fort Ross and environs. |
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